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God's Country
by Valerie Sartor
2008-08-20 09:55:40 |
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"You get pretty grubby trekking around for a few weeks, but boy, it was the experience of my life," a chubby, middle-aged Dutch woman said, smiling. "My husband and I went out into the steppe with 3 younger people, one American and two Germans. It was hard for all of us: the beds were wooden planks with lumpy mattresses and the horse riding made me sore for days - but we saw some of the most beautiful land on earth: giant, empty sand dunes; cold, clear water falling over a 20 meter high cliff; wild geese and ducks in crystal clear lakes, and oh yes, we'll be back again next year." Her husband nodded his head up and down enthusiastically. "Ja, ja," he added, "You should see the splendid pictures I have taken."
Their satisfaction is only a small part of why Mongolia has morphed from a fourth world country stereotyped by wild nomads and an unpronounceable, unreadable language into one of the hottest tourist destinations for Europeans and Americans of all ages. Indeed Ulan Baataar, once deemed the dirtiest capital city in the world by the UN, remains dusty and scorchingly hot in the summer; in winter thick black clouds of coal and wood ash particles gust about on the extremely cold northern Siberian winds. Yet tourists do flock all year round (much less in the winter) to enjoy the challenge of experiencing this remarkable culture and environment. All around UB guesthouses and trekking outfits post scribbled notices such as: "looking for 2 travel partners, gotta get out of UB now!" or "seeking a friend to hitch together to Khovskol". Clearly, UB is not Paris; after touring the GanDan monastery and the Natural History Museum there is nothing more to do except dine at a few ex-pat run cafes and restaurants, or write postcards bragging about being here, or drink Genghis dark beer while waiting to check one's email at the crowded post office.
Heading out of town changes everything. As the largest landlocked country in the world and the 6th largest country in Asia, Mongolia has 1.566.500 square kilometers of almost totally pristine terrain. Low population density (2.3 million Mongolians in Mongolia; 4 million outside), combined with a dismal lack of infrastructure to promote any sort of industrial enterprise, along with most of the indigenous nomadic native population living at pre-industrial standards, all serve to keep the country super clean and undeveloped. This combination attracts eco-tourists of all ages, degrees of solvency and nationalities.
Moreover Mongolia has over 300 types of eco-systems with avariety of wild animals, ranging from bizarre insects to large exotic mammals, many on the endangered list. But most crucial is the growing enthusiasm from Mongolian people and their government that encourages tourists into this remote region. Every visitor seems eager to photograph native peoples, experience their lifestyles, or to watch myriads of golden eagles swooping over lazy herds of yaks. Mongolia is all open range: horses mingle with cattle, sheep and goats, the animals roam with complete abandon, giving rise to the thought that livestock lives better than humans here.
Romantic tourist types come to ride the animals: they encounter surly, spitting camels and fast, sleek ponies. Healthy youngsters (and oldsters) enjoy hiking up steep mountains in Central Mongolia or ultimately stumbling upwards to the peaks of vast sand dunes in the southern Gobi regions. Local guides will also take visitors to newly established national parks to observe wild horses and stunning geographical formations. Guests, devout or otherwise, are urged to drink from healing, sacred springs and walk through monasteries destroyed by the Russians during the Stalinist years. Such experiences inevitably awe and inspires local and tourist alike.
Certainly the tourist industry is helping this exotic nation of Buddhists. Yet serious problems exist in Mongolia: in early 2008 international mining consortiums discovered more rich deposits of coal, natural gas, copper and precious metals. The drive to grow economically has led to ruthless mining that severely damages the environment while providing short-term profits for a select few. At the same time rising oil prices have triggered significant inflation, causing more poverty among Mongolians, and consequently some tendency toward theft and violence toward visitors, especially in UB. Also, be warned that remnants of the old Soviet bureaucracy still exist and can cause acute troubles to tourists[1]. Finally, the influx of foreign guests has created a sense of frustration among younger Mongolians, who are gaining a more global perspective yet they see little possibility of adopting an alternative lifestyle. Resentment is particularly strong against the neighboring Chinese, who are thought to be possible invaders because they are doing more and more business in the country.[2]
Despite these issues eco-tourism serves as a positive force toward bettering the lives of many Mongolians. Many small, family owned guesthouses have sprung up around UB, offering not only cheap and safe shelter but also eco-tours. The best among these operations is the Golden Gobi. Run by a group of siblings aged between 25-39 with Ms. Ogie Nyamdgaa as the head, this eclectic and somewhat chaotic organization strives to please even the most difficult traveler, arranging custom tours from May to November and even winter tours for the super-hardy trekkers. Around town prices depend upon the length and destination, but generally tourists pay an average of 40-45 dollars per day if they travel with a group of 4-6 others. Many groups form spontaneously, especially at the Golden Gobi Guesthouse, and in fact all around the city are poster boards used by guides and tourists alike to attract fellow travelers. Elite, luxurious tour agencies are also available for extremely solvent baby boomers.
Getting around Mongolia is not easy, either on the cheap or on the lux. Although the country rests solidly on hard permafrost the nomadic cultural norms can be very fluid and non-linear: arrangements to travel are often made at the last minute. "Flexibility and a good sense of humor, as well as good health, are required to enjoy a tour around this Buddhist wonderland filled with burley horsemen and stunningly beautiful girls," a long-term British ex-pat said. "Locals and tourists mostly travel outside the city, the rich in fancy SUVs and the budget folks in Russian vans. But both follow the same way - paved roads are rare. Actual road paths are deeply rutted and often washed out. These routes frequently end abruptly in piles of loose gravel – so drivers are your best mate. They must store extra petrol because towns, much less gas stations are few and far between. The vehicles bump along the open steppe yet drivers never seem to get lost despite the lack of signs or lights. Don't worry, don't hurry, just relax and enjoy the trip."
He's right: twelve-hour rides may be necessary to go 250-300 kilometers. Travelers usually sleep communally in nomadic homes (gers, the Mongolian word for yurts) that have no modern conveniences: no running water, no electricity, and no modern kitchen or electronic devices. Bathing, especially in the Gobi and other arid regions, is a luxury for everyone.
So why would anyone want to visit Mongolia? Some tourists find the purity and Buddhist norms that dominate the Mongolian lifestyle enchanting. "The Dalai Lama's picture resides in every ger and no Mongolian will ever refuse hospitality to a stranger," a young Finnish man enthused. "I would like to live my life with that kind of generosity of spirit."
"In the countryside people live as they have for hundreds of years, and those harmonious Mongolian songs reflect a profound respect for nature and relationships with all living things. I'm tired of all the Madonna and Brittany Spears sexuality and the greedy, spoiled consumerism of Europe," a young French doctor said when asked why he'd come to Mongolia for his holidays.
Other tourists are impressed by the beauty; "I've always imagined riding a camel in the desert but I had no idea the desert would be so spectacular," an older American chef named Terry told me. "It literally brought tears to my eyes to watch the sunset, and my guide pointed out to me all the edible plants as well as the animals and bugs that live in this extreme environment."
Getting to this remote nation may take a chunk of cash and a long air flight so many travelers opt to tour Mongolia as part of a longer Asian trek. "I started on the Trans-Siberian in Moscow and rode it to UB," a petite woman from Australia said. "After my treks here are finished I am going on to China and from there to Cambodia and Laos."
"We came on our honeymoon," two tall, smiling young Belgians confessed. "If we can get along with each other after this trip I think our marriage will last a long, long time." What better reason to come to Mongolia on holiday?
******
[1] For example, currently the Mongolian airlines in UB apparently have no way to look up e-tickets. If you travel on MIAT and wish to connect to another flight be sure you have a print out of all your tickets or you will not be allowed to board. For those purchasing antiques and collectibles, be warned that "extra" taxes may be imposed when you exit the country, despite reassurances from the people you may have purchased items from. No liability laws exist yet in Mongolia; if you are hurt or injured you must be able to pay for your own recovery. Extreme and fickle weather conditions must be taken into account: it may snow in June or thunderstorm violently in August. Take adequate protective clothing. Finally remember that airlines, public buses and trains may not run according to schedule, for whatever reason.
[2] Interestingly, Taiwan still considers Mongolia as part of its territory, due to historical reasons.
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